Baird,

Yes this process would be the same for each application. Remember the more you apply the more gloss you will achieve.

If you want to reduce the shine you can, broom the product more aggressively.

John E. Freitag

President/Director

The Stone and Tile School

Office 407-567-7652

Cell 407-615-0134

jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com

www.thestoneandtileschool.com

Braid,

 

No need to buy expensive sprayers, go to home Depot or Lowes and purchase a garden pump up sprayer and use this to apply the product. Use the following process

 

1.       Spray product onto surface.  If one person is applying work areas approximately 6X10

2.       After spraying take a 3/8 inch paint roller and lightly roll over the area you just applied the spray, this process will make sure you have coverage over the entire area.

3.       Use a soft bristle push broom and lightly broom the finish, this will eliminate any roller marks and will assist in leveling out the product.

 

Note: when using the broom DO NOT  sweep back and forth, use one motion pulling the broom towards you, once completed more on to another section.

 

Do not allow the product to dry before starting another area, if you must stop for any length of time stop on a  grout line an start on a grout line.

 

If you over lap onto dry product it will show.

 

Any questions , please advise

 

 

 

John E. Freitag

President/Director

The Stone and Tile School

Office 407-567-7652

Cell 407-615-0134

jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com

 

<image001.jpg>

 

www.thestoneandtileschool.com

 

 

 

From: Baird Standish [mailto:bairdstandish@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:19 AM
To: Restoration and Maintenance
Subject: RE: [sccpartners] Slate Floor Delamination

 

Hi and thanks for the great advice.  I have been researching different products based on all of your comments.  I have talked with Richard James Chemicals and have gotten samples of Stonelok MLT matte urethane finish and Tekseal matte acrylic topcoat.  This looks like it may be the ticket.

 

Was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on an HVLP spraygun set and air compressor (and any ideas on proper accessories) that will not break the bank.  I notice in my research that they cover a wide range, but all i need it for is to spray stuff on a floor, not finish of a Lamborghini.

Cheers,

Baird

 

On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 12:06 PM, John Freitag <jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com> wrote:

 

Braid,

 

There are several thing I would do to this floor :

 

1 . first strip the floor to remove any finishes that have been applied ( if there is an acrylic on it it will strip fairly easy , if it’s an epoxy or urethane it will be much harder and will require aggressive stripper)

      When a floor has a coating on it I recommend a single edge razor blade to check the finish, if when scraping the floor the finish kinda of rolls off the surface it usually an acrylic finish, if it fake off it will fall into the epoxy or  

       urethane  finishes and will be much harder to remove.

 

The single edge razor is your best friend when checking topical coatings.

 

2. once the floor  is stripped and cleaned I would then go over the floor with a honing powder, depending upon the finish your customer is looking for  I would use either a 250 grit or 400 grit powder, this will expose new stone and should eliminate the white water damage you are now seeing.

 

If the moisture problem is not corrected it will occur again, if a topical sealer is used you could compound the problem down the road.

 

I recently used the Stone Care Central Color Enhancer and was please with the result.

 

The product I prefer overall is the Stone Loc from Richard James chemical . this will do everything you are looking for once the floor is properly cleaned and prepared. This seal will stop the shedding, it will enhance the  color and will allow the stone to breath, this is one of the only coating that I know will allow the stone to breath.

 

When applying this you must follow the manufactures  instructions to the letter. I have used a product like this made by the same inventor on over 50,000 = sq ft in my past , and only had 1 small failure , not do to the product it was due to the technician not following the instructions.

 

 

John E. Freitag

President/Director

The Stone and Tile School

Office 407-567-7652

Cell 407-615-0134

jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com

 

<image004.jpg>

 

www.thestoneandtileschool.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: Mike Marsoun [mailto:nulifesc@bigpond.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 5:37 PM

To: Restoration and Maintenance
Subject: RE: [sccpartners] Slate Floor Delamination

 

If you can remove all the loose material (pressure extractor) and use a consolidant like ProSoco 40SK (which is not for floors)  Dry Treat has a similar product (ethyl silicate) which you can use on floors. This will re bind the minerals. I have used it on really bad slate and it works fine. Then you can tell them you have done all you can.

 

From: fhueston@gmail.com [mailto:fhueston@gmail.com] On Behalf Of Dr Fred
Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 9:41 PM
To: Restoration and Maintenance
Subject: RE: [sccpartners] Slate Floor Delamination

 

there is not a lot you can do..just be sure you tell the customer that this is a problem and the moisture source must be found. Chances are the stone will need to be replaced.

On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 10:30 PM, Baird Standish <bairdstandish@gmail.com> wrote:

Thank you all for your insights.  Looks like we will be starting this job after the 19th.  

Cheers,

Baird

 

On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 5:28 PM, Baird Standish <bairdstandish@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi,

We have been asked to strip, clean and seal an old residential interior slate floor.  We have done this kind of thing before and it appears somewhat straight forward assuming we can test to figure out what gets the gook off the best.  Problem is that there is water damage around the edges that has created delamination on some of the stones.  How do you all deal with this kind of issue?  I have warned the owners that this problem may not go away if there is constant water migration underneath the stone.  Hard to say if this is recurring thing.  it looks like the wood floor in the next room are warped from a flood of some kind, but at least part of the floor is adjacent to an exterior wall.  It is sort of a sun room.  I posted some pix.

Thanks for any advice.

Baird<image005.jpg><image006.jpg><image007.jpg>

--
________________________________________
>From the desk of
Baird Standish
Managing Partner
Facility Specialists, LLC
1616 Walnut St.
Philadelphia, PA 19103
Phone: 215-732-7505

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Frederick M. Hueston PhD
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Become a Stone and Tile Inspector..sign up for our next class in October 2009 (only one class per year is offered) www.thestoneandtileschool.com

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________________________________________
>From the desk of
Baird Standish
Managing Partner
Facility Specialists, LLC
1616 Walnut St.
Philadelphia, PA 19103
Phone: 215-732-7505

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