Stone soaps are SUPPOSED to leave behind a residue. That’s the point. This residue conditions the stone, enhances the color and protects. It is a light oil base, and is one of my favorite tools. I once did a limestone job, (one of those difficult grays) and could not get a sheen with pads or Tynex brushes, until I mopped in a coat of stone soap, and the sheen popped, and it did stay.

Historically, the European stone floors were all ground flat then finished to a med. hone and eventually brought to a shine using oil soaps. The oil soaps did help the stone “patina” over time.

Again, my favorite “stone soap” is Murphy Oil Soap. This is of course not sold as a stone soap but it works better, in my opinion. I started using it when I was using the HMK stone soap for a while then noticed the smell, texture, color, is exactly the same as Murphy Soap. I thought, Hmmmm. Seven bucks per liter vs. $32 per liter. I was also influenced in this direction when I made a purchase from Wholesale Stone Restoration Products (?) in Florida many years ago, the order came in a Harleys Oil Soap box. Again, Hmmmm.

Careful not to use it too rich, a one second pour per 2.5 gal bucket. Even less for high honed surfaces. Not recommended on polished stone.

It is not a super strong cleaner but is fantastic if you are relying on a more mechanical cleaning, ie. Tynex brushes, Aluminum Oxide, or Twister/Spinflex type pads.

I would never wet grind without it as it keeps water absorption to a minimum.

On Tue, Sep 22, 2009 at 9:16 AM, John Freitag <jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com> wrote:

Mike,

Not a bad idea using the Murphy Oil Soap, my only concern is that Murphy oil is just what it says it contains some oil, so you could actually be adding oils to the stone you are working on.

I prefer to use products that are designed for the stone such as the neutral cleaners

John E. Freitag

President/Director

The Stone and Tile School

Office 407-567-7652

Cell 407-615-0134

jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com

www.thestoneandtileschool.com

From: Mike Marsoun [mailto:nulifesc@bigpond.com]
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 5:59 PM
To: Restoration and Maintenance
Subject: RE: [sccpartners] DID YOU KNOW THE STONEAND TILE SCHOOL

I use murphy oil soap. It works like a cutting oil and helps to seal between steps, conditions the stone. This is handy on limestone where you do not want to flood the stone too much, the water will actually bead up the next sanding step.

Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra

From: "John Freitag" <jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com>

Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 13:17:42 -0400

To: Restoration and Maintenance<sccpartners@stoneandtilepros.com>

Subject: [sccpartners] DID YOU KNOW THE STONEAND TILE SCHOOL

Did you know that if you add some neutral cleaner to your water during your grinding and honing process it will better suspend your slurry, help to eliminate slurry residue in your grout line and will actually help clean the grout.

The use of neutral cleaner in you water will also extend the life of your diamonds. Use approximately 2 to 3 ounces of neutral cleaner per 5 gallon of water.

These tips are offered to The Stone Pro Partners as a service from

John E. Freitag

President/Director

The Stone and Tile School

Office 407-567-7652

Cell 407-615-0134

jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com

www.thestoneandtileschool.com

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