Fred, John, anyone!
I am looking for help down here in Australia. Regarding a
huge problem I am seeing in the stone industry. I was seeing this on a few
jobs, then a few more, now it is looking like it is the standard. These people
need education, really bad. Below is an article I wrote for my website, and
whoever else will listen. I need to get the word out to the right people. But
who? Here is the article:
Sanded or Un-sanded Grout on Dimensional Stone Floors
By: Mike Marsoun
I
have noticed an alarming trade practice here in Australia which desperately
needs to be addressed.
The
root of this problem is the same as in the US where you will find ceramic tile
installers stepping into the area of natural stone tiles, which is a skill
really more suited for a stonemason. Since the stone tiles are
essentially the same size and shape as a typical ceramic floor tile, the
reasoning is that laying could not be too different and one could use the same
techniques. Nothing could be further from the truth. The density, porosity,
stability, colour consistency, and size/thickness consistency is all very
different in stone and for a proper installation all of these factors need to
be considered. Where one could lay all ceramic tiles with certain setting
materials and technique, this is not the case with natural stone.
From
what I have seen this problem is wide spread and the seriousness threatens the
stone industry itself. Stone installations are not holding up over time and it
is the material, rather than on the faulty installation practices, that are
copping the blame.
One
problem I have seen in a large majority of floors I have looked at for
restoration is the incorrect use of floor grout. The problem goes like this:
for some strange reason here in Australia the materials companies put grout in two
classifications, “Wall Grout” and “Floor Grout”. The
“Wall Grout” is always un-sanded, and the “Floor Grout”
is always sanded. Now, this is unique to Australia. In the US and Europe grout
is simply “sanded” or “un-sanded” and it is left up to
the installer to decide where it is used, floor or wall.
It
is important to note that un-sanded is made for joints 1/8 inch (3 mil) or
less, and sanded grout is made for joints greater than 1/8 inch. The un-sanded
grout is better suited to filling smaller gaps, flows better and has the
ability to stay consistent. Sanded grout will not have the depth of penetration
in the smaller joints, and the consistency will change as it is spread, some
areas become heavy on the sand, and light on the cement component, this makes
for very weak grout which will come out with regular scrubbing and pressure
cleaning.
This
is especially a problem on stone floors, travertine, marble, limestone, where a
1/8 inch or smaller joint is typically used. Due to the porosity of these
stones, the sanded grout has an even greater problem staying hydrated and
therefore has even less penetration.
Aside
from all the above, sanded grout makes grinding/refinishing very difficult, if
not impossible. What happens is this: the grinding is done in a series of
steps, starting aggressively with flattening, then onto the honing steps which
bring up the shine. Now, when honing is being done the environment has to be
very clean, any hard debris could get under the abrasives and cause scratches.
So when the grinding is carefully brought up to a nice hone, and some very hard
silica sand comes out of the unstable sanded grout joint this will leave
scratches. This is why in most every case a stone floor with sanded grout
cannot be fully flattened and restored. I have seen this in most floors I have
looked at for restoration and it is very frustrating because it is so
unnecessary.
Dimensional
stone floors should always have joints of 1/8 inch or less, therefore ALWAYS
should receive un-sanded grout. This is the international standard and it is
time we got on board. It is simple common sense, and to see it done incorrectly
is an embarrassment to the trade. Please spread the word.
For more information please
go to: www.nulifestonecare.com.au