On Sat, May 28, 2011 at 7:44 AM, Randy Frye <rfrye@comcast.net> wrote:

We grind lots of travertine in my area. We do two grind steps 50,120 metals then take the diamonds as follows. These are resin steps 50,120,220, then float the floor with traverfill- Let it set over night. Next day start at 400 resin to a polish or after 400 maybe 800 resin then polish out. Of course this is if the client wants a polish. If they want a satin finish after the 800 resin I will switch to white spin flex or twister pad. At that point start checking the gloss and may go on to yellow and then green if the client request a little more shine. Then a clean and final buffing.Then there is some time a couple hole I will fill being neat on these, clean up around these few holes then do a final inspection.

Hope this helps

Sent from Randy Frye at Cleaning Edge

On May 27, 2011, at 1:43 PM, Baird Standish <bairdstandish@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi, I just read the thread on lippage, so this is somewhat of a twist on that. I have a potential client who recently had 380 sf of matte finished travertine installed. The installation was abysmal and there is lippage all over (floor really needs to be honed all the way across). In addition, a combination of sanded and sandless colored grout was applied, but the level of the grout is well below the face of the tile, so it would need extra grout. The travertine is fairly dense and there are not a lot of holes in the surface, but what there were were just filled with additional grout. Anyway the client wants all the lippage removed and finished to a satin finish. My approach might be to 1. apply additional sandless grout to fill in the grout lines, 2. grind/hone with 50+100 metals then 50, 100 and 200 resin to leave an unpolished flat floor (perhaps finish off with a low grit white dot twister pad). A couple of questions: 1. Is it better to grind/hone without the extra grout and then, when I get past 100 grit, apply the grout to the groutlines surface (so it doesn't pop out in the beginning of the process), and then hone off the excess at 200? -OR- fill at the beginning of the job (which would help avoid chipping)? 2. Will a new layer of grout bond to the old layer? 3. How many minutes should I put in to grinding a 10 sf area (I am using John's formula of 4 minutes usually, but should I go higher for the grinding)? 4. How long should the grout cure before honing/ is there a sealer that can be added to the grout to cure it faster? Any insights are much appreciated. thanks
Baird

--
________________________________________
From the desk of
Baird Standish
Managing Partner
Facility Specialists, LLC
1616 Walnut St.
Philadelphia, PA 19103
Phone: 215-732-7505
Fax: 215-546-9160

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