On Jun 2, 2011 1:47 PM, "Devin Vance" <classicmarblemail@gmail.com> wrote:
> Latex should help to reduce shrinkage you are having from evaporation.
>
> Devin Vance
> Classic Marble Restoration, Inc.
> 954-815-8023; classicmarblemail@gmail.com
> www.classicmarblerestoration.com
> On Jun 2, 2011 1:42 PM, "Stuart Young" <santafefc@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> Re: [sccpartners] Travertine LippageWhen we have used Traverfill in the
> past, just using water, and letting it sit for a day - when we run our
> machines back over it, a lot of the Traverfill goes away and we end up with
> partially filled holes. Some of the fill stays and some goes away - it
> doesn't remain flush with the tile. Does the latex additive help solve this
> problem?
>>
>> Where do you get this additive and how much do you use in making a batch
> of fill?
>>
>> Stuart
>> Santa Fe Floor Care
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Randy Frye
>> To: Restoration and Maintenance
>> Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2011 7:22 AM
>> Subject: RE: [sccpartners] Travertine Lippage
>>
>>
>> Fred Said''as far as the grout is concerned I would make sure to use a
> good latex additive so it bonds to the existing grout. Yes, I would grout
> after you eliminate the lippage''
>>
>>
>> I forgot to say that Mr. Fred Thanks great point.
>>
>> We add that latex additive mix well let it set for 10 minutes, (important
> point also never add any more liquid after this point). It will cause the
> grout to fail. We only mix up maybe half gallon quantity at a time and
> spread it quickly, or it will tend to dry up and you have to throw away,
> even though we mix it on the wet side.
>>
>>
>> On 5/28/11 7:58 AM, "Fred Hueston" <fhueston@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> as far as the grout is concerned I would make sure to use a good latex
> additive so it bonds to the existing grout. Yes, I would grout after you
> eliminate the lippage
>>
>> On Sat, May 28, 2011 at 7:44 AM, Randy Frye <rfrye@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> We grind lots of travertine in my area. We do two grind steps 50,120
> metals then take the diamonds as follows. These are resin steps 50,120,220,
> then float the floor with traverfill- Let it set over night. Next day start
> at 400 resin to a polish or after 400 maybe 800 resin then polish out. Of
> course this is if the client wants a polish. If they want a satin finish
> after the 800 resin I will switch to white spin flex or twister pad. At that
> point start checking the gloss and may go on to yellow and then green if the
> client request a little more shine. Then a clean and final buffing.Then
> there is some time a couple hole I will fill being neat on these, clean up
> around these few holes then do a final inspection.
>>
>> Hope this helps
>>
>> Sent from Randy Frye at Cleaning Edge
>>
>> On May 27, 2011, at 1:43 PM, Baird Standish <bairdstandish@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi, I just read the thread on lippage, so this is somewhat of a twist on
> that. I have a potential client who recently had 380 sf of matte finished
> travertine installed. The installation was abysmal and there is lippage all
> over (floor really needs to be honed all the way across). In addition, a
> combination of sanded and sandless colored grout was applied, but the level
> of the grout is well below the face of the tile, so it would need extra
> grout. The travertine is fairly dense and there are not a lot of holes in
> the surface, but what there were were just filled with additional grout.
> Anyway the client wants all the lippage removed and finished to a satin
> finish. My approach might be to 1. apply additional sandless grout to fill
> in the grout lines, 2. grind/hone with 50+100 metals then 50, 100 and 200
> resin to leave an unpolished flat floor (perhaps finish off with a low grit
> white dot twister pad). A couple of questions: 1. Is it better to grind/hone
> without the extra grout and then, when I get past 100 grit, apply the grout
> to the groutlines surface (so it doesn't pop out in the beginning of the
> process), and then hone off the excess at 200? -OR- fill at the beginning of
> the job (which would help avoid chipping)? 2. Will a new layer of grout bond
> to the old layer? 3. How many minutes should I put in to grinding a 10 sf
> area (I am using John's formula of 4 minutes usually, but should I go higher
> for the grinding)? 4. How long should the grout cure before honing/ is there
> a sealer that can be added to the grout to cure it faster? Any insights are
> much appreciated. thanks
>> Baird
>>
>>
>>
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