Starset 3000 at HD, by the gal or 5 gal.
On Jun 2, 2011 2:04 PM, <flooramor@aim.com> wrote:
> HD carries it. I'll get you a name later, Stu.
>
> J
>
> Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone with Nextel Direct Connect
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randy Frye <rfrye@comcast.net>
> Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2011 14:02:13
> To: Restoration and Maintenance<sccpartners@stoneandtilepros.com>
> Reply-To:"Restoration and Maintenance" <sccpartners@stoneandtilepros.com>
> Subject: RE: [sccpartners] Travertine Lippage
>
> Yes, that makes the the grout stronger.
>
> I get mine from shoreline flooring supplies. I'm not sure if a hardware store would have it like home depo.
>
> Sent from Randy Frye at Cleaning Edge
>
> On Jun 2, 2011, at 1:41 PM, "Stuart Young" <santafefc@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> When we have used Traverfill in the past, just using water, and letting it sit for a day - when we run our machines back over it, a lot of the Traverfill goes away and we end up with partially filled holes. Some of the fill stays and some goes away - it doesn't remain flush with the tile. Does the latex additive help solve this problem?
>>
>> Where do you get this additive and how much do you use in making a batch of fill?
>>
>> Stuart
>> Santa Fe Floor Care
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Randy Frye
>> To: Restoration and Maintenance
>> Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2011 7:22 AM
>> Subject: RE: [sccpartners] Travertine Lippage
>>
>> Fred Said’’as far as the grout is concerned I would make sure to use a good latex additive so it bonds to the existing grout. Yes, I would grout after you eliminate the lippage’’
>>
>>
>> I forgot to say that Mr. Fred Thanks great point.
>>
>> We add that latex additive mix well let it set for 10 minutes, (important point also never add any more liquid after this point). It will cause the grout to fail. We only mix up maybe half gallon quantity at a time and spread it quickly, or it will tend to dry up and you have to throw away, even though we mix it on the wet side.
>>
>>
>> On 5/28/11 7:58 AM, "Fred Hueston" <fhueston@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> as far as the grout is concerned I would make sure to use a good latex additive so it bonds to the existing grout. Yes, I would grout after you eliminate the lippage
>>
>> On Sat, May 28, 2011 at 7:44 AM, Randy Frye <rfrye@comcast.net> wrote:
>> We grind lots of travertine in my area. We do two grind steps 50,120 metals then take the diamonds as follows. These are resin steps 50,120,220, then float the floor with traverfill- Let it set over night. Next day start at 400 resin to a polish or after 400 maybe 800 resin then polish out. Of course this is if the client wants a polish. If they want a satin finish after the 800 resin I will switch to white spin flex or twister pad. At that point start checking the gloss and may go on to yellow and then green if the client request a little more shine. Then a clean and final buffing.Then there is some time a couple hole I will fill being neat on these, clean up around these few holes then do a final inspection.
>>
>> Hope this helps
>>
>> Sent from Randy Frye at Cleaning Edge
>>
>> On May 27, 2011, at 1:43 PM, Baird Standish <bairdstandish@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi, I just read the thread on lippage, so this is somewhat of a twist on that. I have a potential client who recently had 380 sf of matte finished travertine installed. The installation was abysmal and there is lippage all over (floor really needs to be honed all the way across). In addition, a combination of sanded and sandless colored grout was applied, but the level of the grout is well below the face of the tile, so it would need extra grout. The travertine is fairly dense and there are not a lot of holes in the surface, but what there were were just filled with additional grout. Anyway the client wants all the lippage removed and finished to a satin finish. My approach might be to 1. apply additional sandless grout to fill in the grout lines, 2. grind/hone with 50+100 metals then 50, 100 and 200 resin to leave an unpolished flat floor (perhaps finish off with a low grit white dot twister pad). A couple of questions: 1. Is it better to grind/hone without the extra grout and then, when I get past 100 grit, apply the grout to the groutlines surface (so it doesn't pop out in the beginning of the process), and then hone off the excess at 200? -OR- fill at the beginning of the job (which would help avoid chipping)? 2. Will a new layer of grout bond to the old layer? 3. How many minutes should I put in to grinding a 10 sf area (I am using John's formula of 4 minutes usually, but should I go higher for the grinding)? 4. How long should the grout cure before honing/ is there a sealer that can be added to the grout to cure it faster? Any insights are much appreciated. thanks
>> Baird
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