I do not totally agree with that comment. While it is always best to allow the sealer to penetrate as deep as possible but once the carrier (  solvent or water  ) has dried another application can be applied. You can get in trouble when the first application has not totally dried and you apply a second application and it does not penetrate and remains on the surface then you have a stick problem from too much sealer .

John E. Freitag

President/Director

The Stone and Tile School

Office 407-567-7652

Cell 407-615-0134

jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com

www.thestoneandtileschool.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Alex Rivera

To: Restoration and Maintenance

Sent: Monday, July 11, 2011 6:35 AM

Subject: RE: [sccpartners] How to get this "monkey" of my back

 

Adam,

 

Limestone is one of those stone that are very thirsty...especially after being suffocated under a topical for a while.  I have found that applying a couple of applications of sealer, let it sit, buff it, then apply another application a few days later sometimes helps.  He also MUST wait 72 hours before moping or allowing the surface to get wet in order for the sealer to fully penetrate.  (This is a disclosure on my contract.)

 

HOWEVER...It is very important to explain to your customer exactly what sealer is.  A sealer is not some bullet proof magical potion.  It is basically "Scotch-guard".  It buys you time to clean up a spill..  He might have the wrong idea of what the sealer is meant to do and he also needs to know which spills and cleaners will weaken the sealer.

Just my pennies worth.

 

 

On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 9:59 PM, stuart rosen <mail@stoneshine.com> wrote:

Adam,

Besides being your company policy I don’t think there is any legal reason for you to return any money to your client. He hired you and payed you for the services that you performed improving his property.

His issue now is that the floor is still absorbing liquids after 2 coats of sealer was applied.

At this point  your process doesn’t matter but I would tell the customer that you felt you had applied a sufficient amount of sealer evidenced by your final testing . However once the product  cured and the solvent evaporated the limestone is so porous that it simply needs additional sealer. I would put in writing all the facts including that you are more than willing to apply additional sealer at your expense and time to correct the issue if possible . Include in a clause stating the stone may be technically impossible to seal(see what Fred says). Show the letter to your lawyer before sending. 

 Consider finding a sealer formulated for very porous applications. Maybe even one with a warranty if its possible..

Do an area for your customer, let the product cure and check the results.

 

On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 6:33 AM, Devin Vance <classicmarblemail@gmail.com> wrote:

You will have needed more coats w a solvent sealer. Keep coating til stone doesnt absorb. Should use a thicker sealer though.  Solvent is for less porous stones.
Bottom-line - bad stone choice for kitchen and wet/product-prone area. Stone will always etch with alcohol and acid. If not sealed thoroughly/appropriately you will have these issues.
I would attempt to poultice his stains and then seal with a porous stone sealer (511 porous plus - for example).  Sealer needs to dwell for atleast 15-20 mins before next coat. Keep applying till no more bubbles. Buff last coat to remove tackiness.

Devin Vance
Classic Marble Restoration, Inc.
954-815-8023; classicmarblemail@gmail.com
www.classicmarblerestoration.com

On Jul 9, 2011 2:54 AM, "Info Info" <info@restoreyourtiles.com> wrote:
> Partners,
> Recently we have finished project where we stripped old, topical sealer off,
> diamond honed, powder honed and seal 740 sq ft of limestone. We used solvent
> based, impregnating sealer from SCC and floor machine to apply 2 coats. We
> also supplied SCC marble cleaner and explained in detail how to clean the
> floor.
>
> Now, week and half later, customer is complaining that the project did not
> solved his main concern that floor will be protected from the spills (not
> the etch marks). As an example he splashed water onto the floor and even
> thou water bubbled on the surface, limestone got a lot darker. His
> reasoning is that if stone gets darker, means not completely sealed and will
> stain when something else gets spilled, like oil, wine etc. He agreed that
> being a limestone, porous by nature, even pouring gallons of sealer may not
> completely seal the stone and rejected my offer to seal the floor with
> another coat of sealer. He agreed that the floor looks a lot better but
> since part of that floor is in the kitchen and dinning room and impossible
> to prevent accidental spills, it will stain. As of another example, he
> showed new, oily stains next to the fridge and poured and wiped off red wine
> onto the floor which also stained. He fills that he spent a lots of money
> for nothing and he wants to get his money back because the stains are not
> cleanable.
>
> How to explain, why the sealed limestone gets darker when wet? I always want
> to lower the expectation and over deliver the results but here I need some
> counter arguments to repel his insane request and general guidance of what
> to say to this these type of requests in the future. Returning of money is
> not an option. What should I do?
>
> Adam Bartos
> BiO Tile
>
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Regards,
Stu Rosen
201-446-1200
www.mbstonecare.com 

WORLD CLASS STONECARE PRODUCTS

www.mbstone.com
www.stoneshine.com
"A posse ad esse "

 

 

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Kind Regards,
Alex Rivera
Stone Buff, LLC
www.stonebuff.com
919.341.2873 Raleigh Office
910.730.1002 Aberdeen Office
919.609.5857 Mobile
1.877.664.4376 Fax

Order Products and view MSDS sheets for products are available here

 

We are a certified Stone and Tile Pro Partner

 

 

 

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