I agree

On Sat, Jul 30, 2011 at 1:28 PM, stuart rosen <mail@stoneshine.com> wrote:
Great advice James,
I would also suggest being your first grinding job stay 6 inches from the wall on your first cut(Unless the lippage is severe). You will have enough to deal with without  moldings and edge work.
Take your time and check the floor carefully after it dries for random scratches. The goal being to have a flat floor and a good solid profile without random scratch patterns. If you see any dark spots within your profile after the floor dries it will be areas where the tiles meet that still need to be flattened so go back over them with your machine. We use a 50 grit copper pad on our makita to help remove high spots(keep tools flat or you will dip) within the grinding area and random scratches along the perimeter of your profile.
First cut is most important. Check floor after each progressive cut. You can feel comfortable running the 220 diamonds right to the wall unless there is severe lippage that would damage your diamonds or drive you nuts. 
 As you get use to grinding jobs you will find yourself getting more comfortable with getting closer to the edge.
This job should take you 2 days but since its new for you- take your time doing it and if it takes you an extra day-on the job training-nothing more valuable than that. The stone looks like a calacutta and will respond  well to refinishing.
Two grinding cuts and then resins up to 400g , finishing with polishing and sealing can be priced between $7.00 and $10.00 per square foot in the NY metro area.
Sounds like a good job for you-A succesful first grinding job will feel great-hope you get it.


 
On Sat, Jul 30, 2011 at 9:26 AM, John Freitag <jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com> wrote:

James .

 

When figuring pricing  on this job use the same formulas you learn in your training. This formula work for even lippage removal  except the time for the first cut will be at least 2 to 3 time your normal time depending upon the lippage. Once the first cut is done then go back to your normal times and I would polish with 5X powders.

 

By using the timing methods you learned in training you will be able to determine exactly the time needed to do this job. The only variable you have is the first cut and on that cut figure on the high side.

 

 

John E. Freitag

President/Director

The Stone and Tile School

Office 407-567-7652

Cell 407-615-0134

jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com

 

schoollogo

 

www.thestoneandtileschool.com

 

 

 

From: Propartner / MarblePerfect [mailto:propartner@marbleperfect.com]
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2011 9:28 AM


To: Restoration and Maintenance
Subject: RE: [sccpartners] Flattening Marble Foyer

 

Hi ,

 

 

I would agree with most of what randy suggests, sounds like carrera marble and carrera cuts pretty easy. You might want 120 copper bonded

Diamonds to start at. I use them all the time for lippage jobs and they work great. Then 50 resins and on up to 800 then you can polish.

Many times I polish carrera after 400 grit and it works great. I use mb 12 to polish most marble and nothing will pop a shine like mb-12 does

As far as pricing it sounds like at least a two day job to me, I would charge 1800 to 2200 for that job, your cost are helper for two days,

Use and ware on diamonds and equipment, transportation back and forth for two days. And don’t forget sealer, insurance costs all these should be factored in to know

What your real costs are on a daily basis. If others would like to chime in I would like to here what they charge and how much they try to make

On a daily basis with or without expenses factored in.  hope this helps and good luck with the job.

 

KEN DE MELIS

 

MARBLE PERFECT

 

603-393-2776


From: Randy Frye [mailto:rfrye@comcast.net]
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2011 2:29 AM
To: Restoration and Maintenance
Subject: RE: [sccpartners] Flattening Marble Foyer

 

Quick answers to your questions:

Start your cutting here, so I would buy some 50 and 125 metals. then proceed to your 50 resins.

I would remove the toilet.
We sometimes have to grind up to the edge, if possible remove base boards if possible, take your time on the edges other wise you will need to work the edges with your hand tool. If you can have baseboards removed then Make sure baseboards aren't that compressed paper stuff that will be no good if it gets wet.mastercraft is fine, you can add some weight for the grind if you can. The charge would range $750.00 to 1,200.00 depending on if they want a matt finish,satin, or high gloss. Good luck
Sent from  Randy Frye at Cleaning Edge 


On Jul 29, 2011, at 4:00 PM, James Billeaudeau <james@diamondmarblepolishing.com> wrote:

Hello Partners,

 

Took a look at restoring nearly 300 sq ft of a white marble with gray veining installed in a foyer and bathroom. Customers installed the floors themselves many years ago, and it has lots of lippage.  It's not that bad, just plentiful, and they inquired about flattening the floor.  Since I've not flattened a floor before, I'm seeking your expert advice on what it takes to do so.  Some questions that come to my mind are: Do I need anything other than my current inventory of 50 grit to 1800 grit resin diamonds for grinding?  Will my Mastercraft Quarry Master floor machine suffice?  Is additional machine weight necessary when flattening?  Would it be beneficial to have them remove the toilet & basin in the bathroom?  When flattening, do I have to grind the entire floor?  I'm sure I may have missed some other things, so any and all advice would be appreciated.  Finally, how to charge for such and any recipe for times needed when grinding would also be needed so that I could provide them with a cost estimate.  I've attached photos, and as always, thanks all of you for your valuable advice.

 

James L. Billeaudeau

Diamond Marble Polishing

Lafayette, Louisiana


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Stu Rosen
201-446-1200
www.mbstonecare.com 
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