Baird,
if you are talking about the cups on the klindex tb kit-they are shallow and will drive you crazy running it over marble lippage. You will think you are on the ice of a flyer game. For grinding marble you will need deeper cups. Also the toolips are  ok tools as I am very familiar with them.
Super abrasive also makes quality diamonds better than the toolips as they don't rust and cut great. I also like using surface pro metals they too are aggressive and will give you good scratch patterns. They make a 120 copper that cuts great and leaves very clean scratch patterns.
How large is the floor-how many toolips do you have? hows the lippage? The reason I ask is I might save my money and grind the floor running two swing machines with drivers larger than 17" running 4/ 3 inch toolips in each of the grits you need. I like the planetary but not that tb kit unless you can get the deeper cups, now that I think about it the shroud is a pain in the ass too. 
You will always need to drop back a grit when you transition from metals to resins unless you spend money and get the surface pros. Sometimes depending on the stone after the 100 copper you can go right to 100 resins.
Isn't this the stone that had the flood/water damage.?
If you want a nice shine you can certainly use those twister pad things in any grit you find that gives you a nice finish or you can try  taking the stone to 400 or 800 resins and using a pinch(or a little more) of 5x with a white pad . You can push the slurry along with a squeegee and have that person mop as you go. You may get a cleaner finish than the twisters produce.

On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 3:13 PM, Mike Marsoun <nulifesc@bigpond.com> wrote:
I like turbo cat brased metals to 200 for soft stone
Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
From: Baird Standish <bairdstandish@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 15:24:28 -0500
To: Restoration and Maintenance<sccpartners@stoneandtilepros.com>
ReplyTo: "Restoration and Maintenance" <sccpartners@stoneandtilepros.com>
Subject: RE: [sccpartners] Limestone Grinding

Thanks John!  The metal diamonds I have are the Toolips.  How does the metal lippage tool work compared to the toolips?  Just put them on the machine like regular diamonds?
thanks,
Baird

On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 3:05 PM, John Freitag <jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com> wrote:

Baird

 

My response below in Blue

 

From: Baird Standish [mailto:bairdstandish@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 2:12 PM
To: Restoration and Maintenance
Subject: [sccpartners] Limestone Grinding

 

Hi,
I recently posted a question about grinding some green limestone.  Thanks all for the input.  I did an extensive test and it found that I had to go to 50 metals to get the overall damage out, and had to go down to 30 grit to get the really badly damaged stuff corrected.  I have a few related questions:
1. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good aggressive metal diamond that I can use on the limestone?  I have been using some old metals that work fine on concrete, but if there is something out there that is a little more aggressive or effective in order to eliminate some of the grinding time, that would be great.  Someone recommended some vitreous diamonds a while back, but I'm not sure what that is. 

 

I would recommend the metal lippage tool from Stone Care Central the 50 metals cut very good. Then use the 100 metal lippage tool then switch over to the resin pads starting with 50 grit.


2. when transitioning from metals to resins I have gone to 200 metals and then back down to 100 resin, and I have also gone to 100 metals and then back down to 50 resin.  Would there be an advantage to one method over another?
3. I have a klindex machine with a planetary device that I use for grinding concrete but have never had to use it for grinding stone.  Was wondering if the planetary would improve the efficiency of the job or overall finish of the stone.  The cups on the planetary keep the metals in place so the diamonds are not thrown on concrete, but I haven't run into that problem so much on stone.

 

After the 100 metal switch over to the 50 resin pads . The klindex machine may speed up the process you should have no problems using that machine .


3.To achieve a satin finish I tested the diamonds up to 200 and then used an 800 twister/spinflex type pad and it gave the finish a low satin finish.  But to get more shine without many more steps, what would work?  I am concerned about using polish because in the past I have had a hard time adjusting the level of gloss.

 

If you want more gloss and don’t want to use the polishing powders then hone up to a 400 or 800 then finish off with a higher grit honing powder or your twister pad

 

Hope this helps

 

 

John E Freitag    

Director

The Stone & Tile School

Office # 407-567-7652

Cell # 407-615-0134

 

 

Thanks for your input!
Baird

--
________________________________________
From the desk of
Baird Standish
Managing Partner
Facility Specialists, LLC
1616 Walnut St.
Philadelphia, PA 19103
Phone: 215-732-7505
Fax: 215-546-9160

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--
________________________________________
From the desk of
Baird Standish
Managing Partner
Facility Specialists, LLC
1616 Walnut St.
Philadelphia, PA 19103
Phone: 215-732-7505
Fax: 215-546-9160

Powered by http://DiscussThis.com
Visit list archives, subscribe, unsubscribe or change your subscription preferences
Start a new conversation (thread)

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Visit list archives, subscribe, unsubscribe or change your subscription preferences
Start a new conversation (thread)




--
Regards,
Stu Rosen
201-446-1200
www.mbstonecare.com 
www.mbstone.com
www.stoneshine.com
"EVERYTHING MATTERS "