ok. thanks so much.
Yes you are correct
I recommend polishing a 20 to 30 foot section then vac up the 5X powder then neutralize and then polish an additional 20 to 30 sq. ft section vac up the 5X polishing powder then vac up the neutralized area then neutralize the area you just polished and continue until the job is complete.
John E Freitag
Director
The Stone & Tile School
Office 407-567-7652
Cell 407-615-0134
jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com
From: Baird Standish [mailto:bairdstandish@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 4:40 PM
To: Restoration and Maintenance
Subject: RE: [sccpartners] 5X Slinger
Thanks John. So I would just leave it there for a while until a much larger section is completed and then pick the whole thing up?
B
On Mon, Apr 9, 2012 at 2:18 PM, John Freitag <jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com> wrote:
The neutral cleaner needs to be applied after you polish a section of floor to neutralize the area you just polished and to protect the surrounding areas from etching while you are polishing.
John E Freitag
Director
The Stone & Tile School
Office 407-567-7652
Cell 407-615-0134
jfreitag@thestoneandtileschool.com
From: Baird Standish [mailto:bairdstandish@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 1:22 PM
To: Restoration and Maintenance
Subject: RE: [sccpartners] 5X Slinger
Hi. I'm sorry but am not up to speed on the neutralizing barrier technique. Id the idea that you immediately mop down a wash of neutral cleaner on to the area just polished so that the polish will not continue to etch and creates a barrier for splatters from an adjoining area? Is neutral cleaner applied prior to polishing (and mixed with the polish)?
Thanks,
Baird
On Mon, Apr 9, 2012 at 10:39 AM, Adam <info@restoreyourtiles.com> wrote:
2790 con de soil with etch any natural stone. We use it on grout cleaning all the time. For natural stone cleaning we use scc neutral cleaner it works very good with truck mount.
Now make a note for yourself:
Use neutral stone cleaner on any ceramic tiled floor adjacent to natural stone!!!
It will save you a lot of work and money being safe and not damaging stone.
On Apr 8, 2012, at 6:24 PM, Eric - DGG <eric@dirtygroutguys.com> wrote:Yes, dark grout lines. They were already problematic just with the white slurry from honing.
Is etching from strong alkaline really strange? I'm hoping Freitag reads this. I was using Shore Best Con-D-Soil, our "go-to" cleaner, at 3:1.
MB22 is new? I Googled and found talk in '07:
Okay, ammonia in bucket. Higher pH, I assume it's more critical not to get that mixed into the acidic powder?
Eric Lewis, Technical MgrDirtyGroutGuys.com
West Chester, PA 19380
On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 6:56 PM, stuart rosen <mail@stoneshine.com> wrote:
Eric-then it sounds like etches-we use ammonia in our mop bucket and seems to work well when we are using 5x. From what you said they may be light enough to take out without rehoning and only using a polishing compound. Strange stone if it etches from an alkaline cleaner.
I know 52B from eastern marble is a good product and should take out the etches. It is a fine white powder so just be mindful of the grout lines they looked pretty dark.
The MB-22 is a new product and should be on the site this week thats why you couldnt find it. We have been testing it for quite some time now. The labels were just completed so the office has it if you would like to try it. It does contain acid but is very easy to use( and will leave a very good finish in most cases. Even better the actual(well almost) instructions come attached to the package! It is a light grey product so if you do use be mindful of the grout lines as well.
On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 2:10 PM, Eric - DGG <eric@dirtygroutguys.com> wrote:
Thanks Stuart. No, none of the splatter marks matched any of the component lines of the stone. That pic isn't really representive of the marks. Yes, most appeared elongated. My helper remarked that many looked like crows feet.
The main reason the client is probably satisfied is that there are very few angles where you can get daylight on the marble. You really need the bright sunlight to easily make out the marks. While I can find them with the overhead lighting, they don't photograph well. This photo might help:
I was spending 4 minutes on each 10 sq.
Eric Lewis, Technical MgrDirtyGroutGuys.com
West Chester, PA 19380
On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 2:25 PM, stuart rosen <mail@stoneshine.com> wrote:
Hello Eric,
Just so you know-everyone of us has been in that spot-so if it makes you feel any better you aren't alone.
First jobs are always a memorable experience.
Your right its hard to see the pic but this is what I see.
First-that doesn't look like crema marfil. I would bet a buck(that's my limit!) it is a marble that has some sensitive minerals in the makeup.
So what I think is happening is that you aren't etching due to to the splattering but the amount of powder and the time you are spending on the surface is burning the sensitive minerals. From the pic it looks like the etching is happening to one particular mineral in the stone.
The etches from splatters look like a elongated teardrops if that's make sense to you.
If the rest of what I am saying makes sense then you will likely just have to tweak your process.Can you send us a better pic or just explain if the etching after closer examination does in fact appear to be on a certain mineral.
If that is the case than you will probably need to rehone the surface like Jamie says lightly like a 400 grit and then take the stone up higher to 800 or even above then polish. Then like John says you may have to use much less powder and or water or switch to something like a non-acidic powder. Don't get freaked out the folks here will help you get through this.
On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 11:49 AM, <flooramor@aim.com> wrote:
MB--22 might be a product that may help you out with this also. You'll most likely have to do some light honing, but test first.
Sent from a smartphone.
From: john jackson <kcstoneguy@yahoo.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 07:31:56 -0700 (PDT)
To: Restoration and Maintenance<sccpartners@stoneandtilepros.com>
ReplyTo: "Restoration and Maintenance" <sccpartners@stoneandtilepros.com>
Subject: RE: [sccpartners] 5X Slinger
welcome to the wonderful world of stone. When i first started, would have problems like that a lot. But i learned that the powder I was using was too hot, ( i was using that Hertron junk)..I switched to true 5x powders, I will only use Italian Craftsman 5x powders, much easier to work with.
I always use an alkaline natural stone cleaner to neutralize the acid of the powder polish, not a neutral cleaners.
#3 and probably most importantly, each stone varies in how sensitive it is. A lot of time with a limestone or similar type stone, you dont really use much water at all, just mist the water and almost just do a dry polish. It just takes time and experience to learn what to do. It could be the photo, but it didnt really look like crema marfil to me, looked more like a limestone due to the color, most crema marfil has more of a yellow hue to it. And to be honest, some stones are so acid sensitive you just cannot use a powder polish like 5x...thats why i keep a bucket of Eastern Marbles 52b in the van, its a non acidic (tin oxide) compound.
my main suggestion is to cut back on the powder and not use so much water and see how that goes..
From: Eric - DGG <eric@dirtygroutguys.com>
To: Restoration and Maintenance <sccpartners@stoneandtilepros.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 8, 2012 9:09 AM
Subject: [sccpartners] 5X Slinger
Trust you all are having a fine Easter weekend.
First marble polishing job since being trained by John & Butch in beginning of March. 320 sq Crema Marfil foyer, powder room & hallway. Seemed like a nice simple first job. Right.
The prescription was 220, 400 & 5X polish. Everything went fine up until the polish. After drying there appeared to be splash etching marks on the stone. My first assumption was that the mix ratio of the neutral cleaner was too light, so I quadrupled it. Repeated the polish which removed the etch marks, only to have new ones appear.
Okay, so maybe using the pump sprayer to lay down the neutral barrier wasn't such a good idea, even though it appeared flooded. Switched to the academic bucket & mop method. Took extra care to lay it down thick. Yet still the marks appeared.
The only other variable was how I removed the slurry. Used both wet vac & our truck mount spinner. Neither seemed to make a difference.
I even tried just doing 10 sq at a time before extraction, as opposed to the normal 20. Same problem.
Not a great photo, but the etch marks should be obvious.
I was even sparing on the 5X as I discovered that the one pound container we had was only going to cover 250 sq.
I know I'm a newbie, but this is ridiculous. Any clue as to what I'm doing wrong?
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--
Regards,
Stu Rosen
201-446-1200
www.mbstonecare.comwww.mbstone.com
www.stoneshine.com
"EVERYTHING MATTERS "
--Regards,
Stu Rosen
201-446-1200
www.mbstonecare.comwww.mbstone.com
www.stoneshine.com
"EVERYTHING MATTERS "
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PLEASE NOTE OUR NEW ADDRESS AND PHONE NUMBERS. THE OLD NUMBERS WILL WORK FOR SOME PERIOD OF TIME.
________________________________________
>From the desk of
Baird Standish
Managing Partner
Facility Specialists, LLC
15 West Highland Ave.
Philadelphia, PA 191118
Phone: 267-331-5369
Fax: 267-331-5771
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--
PLEASE NOTE OUR NEW ADDRESS AND PHONE NUMBERS. THE OLD NUMBERS WILL WORK FOR SOME PERIOD OF TIME.
________________________________________
>From the desk of
Baird Standish
Managing Partner
Facility Specialists, LLC
15 West Highland Ave.
Philadelphia, PA 191118
Phone: 267-331-5369
Fax: 267-331-5771
Powered by http://DiscussThis.com
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