If your flattening the floor there is no need to run a flexible pad cause the floor will be flat except for an area along the edge. If you needed to you could always run a fiber grit pad (ie,twister,cps,monkey) to deal with frames at the(btwn your 220 and 400 grit resin diamond cuts) edge.Or run honing powder if you needed.

Your biggest concern is the making sure you spend enough time on that first cut and you create a clean tight profile so you can move to the next grit. Make sure you take your time and let the floor dry so you can your scratch pattern clearly.

On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 6:18 PM, Eric - DGG <eric@dirtygroutguys.com> wrote:

When cutting lippage, at what point do you switch back to a floor pad from the solid pad driver? After the first cut; in our case the 40 metal? Or would you do the next 100 metal cut on the solid driver, switching back to a floor pad for the resin cuts?

My novice thinking is that you're done cutting after the initial 40 metal, and you want all the subsequent passes to conform to it using the flexibility of the floor pad.

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