Thanks Stu. It's marble. Don't know the name. I even have an unopened box, but no identifying label. It's a tan/beige marble. We've opened many holes in our grinding. Hope this is visible:
   Tiler's first natural stone installation. No leveling devices... tiles floated every which way. Severe lippage. 18" tile, brickwork pattern, initially sanded 1/4" grout lines. We made him cut out the sanded grout. He put back unsanded, with a TEC acrylic additive. Just 500 square... a dining & living room. But, for example, a 10 square cut is taking 3 twelve minute passes to get level on 40 grit diamonds, with 30 lbs. weight.
    We've finished the first 150 square. I mistakenly started the first 100 square with a floor pad. Went back over with a hard driver. Only as we'd already taken off all the shine, the only way to tell was by feel. Most of the floor is smooth, but there are a couple spots where the floor machine bucks as though not flat. When it's still doing that after 3 or 4 twelve minute cuts, I got nervous about going farther. What is the objective standard for knowing that the floor is flat? Straight edge? Laser?
   I like the idea of the Monkey pads for the edges. We told the contractor that we would have a tough time at the edges. While we're covered, I would like to leave as good a result as possible. 
   Understand, from the home owner's point of view, the reason for all this is "trip hazard". Well, I can assure that there's no chance of that.
   But I consider this a pre-paid lippage school. I've got the rest of the week to finish & I'd like to exit this job with experience & confidence.
Eric Lewis, Technical Mgr
West Chester, PA 19380

On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 7:47 PM, stuart rosen <> wrote:
First if your doing grinding cuts keep the setup rigid so you get good clean cuts.
If your flattening the floor there is no need to run a flexible pad cause the floor will be flat except for an area along the edge. If you needed to you could always run a fiber grit pad (ie,twister,cps,monkey) to deal with frames at the(btwn your 220 and 400 grit resin diamond cuts) edge.Or run honing powder if you needed. 
Your biggest concern is the making sure you spend enough time on that first cut and you create a clean tight profile so you can move to the next grit. Make sure you take your time and let the floor dry so you can your scratch pattern clearly.
What type of stone are you working on? How large is the floor?-softer of course is more forgiving and harder isnt. Keep the random scratches in check.

On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 6:18 PM, Eric - DGG <> wrote:

   When cutting lippage, at what point do you switch back to a floor pad from the solid pad driver? After the first cut; in our case the 40 metal? Or would you do the next 100 metal cut on the solid driver, switching back to a floor pad for the resin cuts?

   My novice thinking is that you're done cutting after the initial 40 metal, and you want all the subsequent passes to conform to it using the flexibility of the floor pad.

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