How thick was the lippage when you started??? You are using the correct diamond , have you added any weight to your machine?
John E Freitag
The Stone & Tile School
From: firstname.lastname@example.org [mailto:email@example.com] On Behalf Of Eric - DGG
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 12:02 PM
To: Restoration and Maintenance
Subject: Fwd: RE: [sccpartners] Cutting Lippage
I'm using the 3" 40 grit metals from Stone Care Central:
The slurry looks like:
After 24 mins of cutting at 2' x 5' area, we're still left with lippage like:
Lots of water for lubricant. Stone still gets warm to the touch.
On Jul 17, 2012 9:25 AM, "J. Palacio" <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
> I don't know that you can time de-lipping. Too many variables... It's akin to your GPS telling you how long you will be stuck in traffic.
> I pay attention to the stone and the feedback it is giving me. The slurry, the sound, the scratch pattern. Sometimes I like to use China Pencil to help me visualize and determine my remaining lips.
> You could knock down some stubborn lips with your hand tool, but careful not to dip the floor. Easily done if not careful. Work a larger area to bring down the floor more uniformly.
> What kind of pads are you using? How does your slurry look?
> On Jul 16, 2012, at 10:39 PM, stuart rosen <email@example.com> wrote:
>> Hard to see the clarity in the pics but almost looks like a light emperador which would make sense if you are pulling fill out.
>> Many different qualities out there today but if fill is coming out you need to decide how you will refill. How much material are you dislodging?
>> That stone is probably medium hardness so it will take you some time-but being patient and taking your time though the first cut will help you.
>> If the lippage is so bad that you are throwing diamonds it may be a good idea to float those areas with the same grout the tiler used.
>> You could have told the tiler to float the grout out like that on the whole floor except on top of the baseboard-Nextime. You ll be fine-like you said this is school and you will learn a boatload. We all will help you thru it if you need us.
>> If you grouted the machine will run more stable and smooth. If it is too late for that then there are some other methods to control the bouncing but they could add to the time(grind down high edges by hand dry with dust control and hepa vac). You didn't mention that it was throwing off your diamonds so if it isn't then keep moving slowly and listen to the machine. As it becomes quieter the floor is getting flat.
>> Notice when you start a new areas as opposed to a flattened area the clicking of the machine. when that machine gets quiet those areas are close to flat. Make sure that you concentrate and the perimeter of your first grind-also when the floor dries any shiny or dark spots will reveal where the floor isn't flat. You will see this at the corners of the tiles. These areas you can go back over or grind down by hand.
>> Do you your first cut bu working small sections at a time and moving on once there flat. You can always go back over sections.
>> We very rarely use a level to check the floor.
>> Good luck!
>> On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 8:24 PM, Eric - DGG <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
>>> Thanks Stu. It's marble. Don't know the name. I even have an unopened box, but no identifying label. It's a tan/beige marble. We've opened many holes in our grinding. Hope this is visible:
>>> Tiler's first natural stone installation. No leveling devices... tiles floated every which way. Severe lippage. 18" tile, brickwork pattern, initially sanded 1/4" grout lines. We made him cut out the sanded grout. He put back unsanded, with a TEC acrylic additive. Just 500 square... a dining & living room. But, for example, a 10 square cut is taking 3 twelve minute passes to get level on 40 grit diamonds, with 30 lbs. weight.
>>> We've finished the first 150 square. I mistakenly started the first 100 square with a floor pad. Went back over with a hard driver. Only as we'd already taken off all the shine, the only way to tell was by feel. Most of the floor is smooth, but there are a couple spots where the floor machine bucks as though not flat. When it's still doing that after 3 or 4 twelve minute cuts, I got nervous about going farther. What is the objective standard for knowing that the floor is flat? Straight edge? Laser?
>>> I like the idea of the Monkey pads for the edges. We told the contractor that we would have a tough time at the edges. While we're covered, I would like to leave as good a result as possible.
>>> Understand, from the home owner's point of view, the reason for all this is "trip hazard". Well, I can assure that there's no chance of that.
>>> But I consider this a pre-paid lippage school. I've got the rest of the week to finish & I'd like to exit this job with experience & confidence.
>>> Eric Lewis, Technical Mgr
>>> West Chester, PA 19380
>>> On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 7:47 PM, stuart rosen <email@example.com> wrote:
>>>> First if your doing grinding cuts keep the setup rigid so you get good clean cuts.
>>>> If your flattening the floor there is no need to run a flexible pad cause the floor will be flat except for an area along the edge. If you needed to you could always run a fiber grit pad (ie,twister,cps,monkey) to deal with frames at the(btwn your 220 and 400 grit resin diamond cuts) edge.Or run honing powder if you needed.
>>>> Your biggest concern is the making sure you spend enough time on that first cut and you create a clean tight profile so you can move to the next grit. Make sure you take your time and let the floor dry so you can your scratch pattern clearly.
>>>> What type of stone are you working on? How large is the floor?-softer of course is more forgiving and harder isnt. Keep the random scratches in check.
>>>> On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 6:18 PM, Eric - DGG <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
>>>>> When cutting lippage, at what point do you switch back to a floor pad from the solid pad driver? After the first cut; in our case the 40 metal? Or would you do the next 100 metal cut on the solid driver, switching back to a floor pad for the resin cuts?
>>>>> My novice thinking is that you're done cutting after the initial 40 metal, and you want all the subsequent passes to conform to it using the flexibility of the floor pad.
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>>>> Stu Rosen
>>>> "EVERYTHING MATTERS "
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