Tony, I have plenty of experience with this sort of thing.  First of all, my general line is that edging is always extra because it is very tedious. It will look much better if they can temporarily remove some cabinets first.   Second, If I do edges, I try to sell the idea of edging just at a low level grit (say 100, but you may get away with edging one cut at a higher grit depending upon the original finish).  It is best to do the edges first and then overlap with the machine so that it minimizes the hand edged area.  I can usually get the machine within 2 inches of the wall, but not in corners and not around protrusions.  I would tell them that the edge will always look different.  Ameripolish (I believe) actually shows a color chart showing the unfinished edge dye tone compared to the polished edge. Ameripolsih also sells an edge tint that contrasts with the rest. Even if you finished the edges to a higher finish, it will still look different than the rest.  attached is a picture of a job we just finished, where we ground off black mastic and took to 100 grit (orange floor) and another that we finished at 200.  Both had black mastic and we removed that with a combination of lippage removal discs and Aldon Premium Sealer Remover (which is like zip strip but doesn't stink as much). You can see that the edges are a little different than the regular floor.

Inline image 1 Inline image 2

On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 11:17 AM, Tony Warney <tony@excelstoneandtilecare.com> wrote:
I have a client that wants the concrete in his kitchen polished.  What tool would you recommend for the edges and under the toe kick's, corners, etc.?


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Tony Warney
Excel Stone and Tile Care


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