John can you think about producing a DVD for the worldwide Cheetah customers?
Guys, I just finished testing and doing my first training with the Cheetah pads and was very happy with the results. I have found how well these pads will work with no polishing powders or crystallizer.
We will be offering classes for the use of the cheetah pads and the Cheetah Pucks in January. Theses pads work well but training will help in understanding how to use these pads.
I will be testing these pads on concrete within the next month with a large concrete honing and polishing company , will give you the results as I get them.
John E Freitag
The Stone & Tile School
Hey Stuart, I used these cheetahs yesterday on a green serpantine.The results were nothing less than fabulous. Used the 11000 monkey after for the final finish. What was most impressive was that after #1 puck it not only all but removed lippage, I also had a very slight sheen/reflection. This could just be because the serpantine is harder than marble. Good luck.
Sent from my Galaxy S®III
-------- Original message --------
From: stuart rosen <email@example.com>
Date: 12/03/2013 1:25 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Stone and Tile PROS Technical Support <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: RE: [sccpartners] Terrazzo Tiles with quartz aggregate
Can you answer that question for me regarding how many pucks I should run on the 22 inch pad drivers -if I am going to make the purchase need to get it done.
Will polishing work after the step 2-3 pucks?
As far as sealing we have that covered .
I hope you are out of the hospital and feeling well.
On Fri, Nov 29, 2013 at 5:25 PM, Stu Rosen <email@example.com> wrote:
Sorry to hear you are in the hospital.
I hope you get well soon-all the best to you.
I think I will give the pucks a try and let folks know how it went.
I will use step2 and 3 and then powder polish .
Can I just use a hogs hair pad with our MB-22 polishing compound.
When this terrazzo is honed right it polishes well.
I shouldn't need an 11000 grit polishing pad with a compound that has somewhere around a 600 grit value..
We will be running 22 inch drive plates , can I run four pucks of each grit on this type driver or will I need more.
We only run four three inch diamonds normally .
I understand the instructions fine.
I will call your office and place an order once you let me know how many pucks we will need.
What do you use to control picture framing prior to polishing.
Is there any thing else I need to know
Sent from my iPad
On Nov 28, 2013, at 12:26 PM, Dana Kothrade <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
I'm bored out of my mind laying in a hospital bed and saw this question and thought I should respond. I'm trying from my phone so please forgive and typo's or redundant things I may have pasted twice.
Cheetah Pucks are being used with great success on jobs just like this one in many large institutions. There are different ways to go about it depending on your goals, type of equipment and level of damage.
Here's Two of Several Possible Approaches
Cheetah Pucks step 2-3 then use your powder polish very sparingly with an 11,000 monkey pad. Then seal with my Nano Guard (diluted with 75% water apply super light with micro fiber flat mop) and dry buff off ALL surface excess for a more durable high gloss. Avoid creating a topical by over use.
Or if they want the very best looking most durable finish, that will last longer and be much easier to maintain.
Here are the same instructions I sent to an In House Janitorial crew that restored a 12,000 sqft cafeteria with my process.
They did a beautiful job and because of our process they lowered ongoing maintenance cost by over 85%.
Here's the before, during and after pics too.
40 yr old concrete cafeteria floor at high school in Florida
104 yr old marble in Tennessee
Agglomerate in the UK
If the surface is rough or damaged severely enough that very low grit metal
bond diamonds must be used then just make sure your last metal bond diamond
is 100 grit. After that the whole restoration can be performed with the
Cheetahs. If the surface is smooth and the damage is not severe you may be
able to Start with Step-1 (damage can be seen and felt with fingers and/or
fingernail) or even Step-2(you can see surface etching or traffic wear
damage but can't really feel it)
Start with Cheetah Pucks Step-1 by testing a small section 5ft by 5ft. Work
the area (ALWAYS USE CHEETAHS WET-NEVER ALLOW THEM TO RUN DRY) for 30
Sqwueegee a small area, wipe clean, dry with fan or heat gun or hair drier.
Look closely to see if 100% of the scratch pattern from the metal bond
diamond cut has been fully removed. Even though Step-1 cuts very rapidly and
creates a very thick slurry you'll know you're done because the surface
should be very smooth and there should be no visible scratch pattern. If 30
seconds isn't enough, repeat as many times as needed in 30 second increments
until you determine exactly how much time a 5x5 area takes to complete that
particular step cheetah puck.
---USE A LARGE DIGITAL DISPLAY COOKING TIMER TO ACCURATELY TRACK TIMES---
Once your time per 5x5 area is determined, divide the time it took by 25 and
you now know how many square feet you can complete in how much time. Just
repeat that exact amount of time or more (never less time) on the whole area
working at the sqft rate you determined.
Rinse thoroughly and vacuum well as you go but pull the bulk of the slurry
with you keeping it under the cheetahs to accelerate cutting. After rinsing
and vacuuming run a wet micro fiber flat mop over the area to ensure you've
removed 100% of any abrasives left behind after each step. Use a clean micro
fiber each time.
Now repeat the same test procedure but with Step-2 Cheetah Pucks. You'll do
this once on each step to determine best results and optimum efficiency.
Staining or dying should be done after step 2 once the surface is completely
clean and dry. Apply two to four coats acetone stain (AmeriPolish Acetone
Concrete Stain) according to manufacturer instructions. Then liberally apply
my hardener and move it around wet on the surface for 15-20 minutes then
allow to absorb and dry until dry to the touch. Repeat hardener application
1-3 times until it seems to stop absorbing quickly.
LET IT CURE OVER NIGHT
Now you're ready for Step-3 test. Determine your cut rate and do the whole
area just as you did on previous steps. The longer you run steps 3&4 the
higher gloss you'll achieve. An easy way to know you gotten the maximum
result from each step is as follows.
Once you think you've completed a 5x5 section, go over 1/2 of the section
for another 30 seconds. Vacume and dry the area. Looking straight down at
the reflection of a light source on the ceiling move from one side to the
other. Do both areas look identical? If yes, that amount of time is perfect.
If the reflection is crisper and brighter in the 1/2 you spent an extra 30
seconds on then you need to work the area another 30 seconds or more. Retest
in increments of 30 seconds.
You'll repeat this process on step-4 and then stain the surface again to
deepen the color. Apply another lighter coat of our Hardener and allow it to dry to help lock the stain in while you dry buff with a white pad to force it into the pores and ACCELLERATE the curing.
After finishing step 4 rinse thoroughly and then
Wet polish with 8,000 or 11,000 grit monkey pad
Dry the surface
Apply last coat of stain according to stain manufacturer specs
Clean up excess stain according to stain manufacturer specs
Mix nano guard 1 gal nano:4 gal water
Apply very very light but uniform coat with clean micro fiber flat mop as
quickly as possible to avoid streaks (apply one small manageable area before
applying to next area) similar to top coating wood floor.
Allow 30 min dry time
Dry buff off ALL excess nano on surface. Should only take a few seconds per
sqft. Only enough to polish away streaks and any nano on surface. We do not
want a topical coating. Its meant to only fill pores not top coat.
Repeat application of nano 2-4 times (use your best judgement)
DRY BUFF AFTER EVERY APPLICATION OF NANO GUARD
USING NANO GUARD TOO CONCENTRATED OR TOO HEAVY/WILL RESULT IN A HIGH GLOSS TOPICAL FINISH-THIS IS INCORRECT USE OF THIS PRODUCT
NANO GUARD IS MEANT TO BE A SUB SURFACE PORE FILLER/color enhance and must be diluted 75% with water and applied in super light but uniform coats with a soft clean micro fiber flat mop that are ALWAY dry buffed with a dry 11,000 monkey pad to help speed cure the nano and remove nano from the surface.
I prefer a high speed burnisher but a 175 or 300 rpm floor buffer will do well.
Don't wet polish or dry buff with big planetary.
There are sooooo many ways to use cheetahs and monkeys depending on the circumstances. I'm happy to offer suggestions.
Hope this was helpful.
These instructions can be used for concrete, cement based terrazzo, limestone and travertine to achieve a much harder surface with dramatic increases in gloss and clarity and no topical so ongoing maintenance only consists of water and an 11,000 grit monkey pad to clean and polish in one step.
CEO/Director of R&D
Innovative Surface Solutions
On Nov 27, 2013, at 7:01 PM, stuart rosen <email@example.com> wrote:
We have a job coming up in December involving the refinishing of terrazzo tiles (cement) with a quartz and glass aggregate.
The stone is in a very busy dinning room that is mopped three times a day.
The white terrazzo is black with soil buildup and gets very worn(there is lippage).
We usually start with 50 metals and work up to 800 or 1500 and polish with an acidic polishing compound then we seal it .
Its a large floor and a slow process.
Dana-I read in the last post regarding cheetah pucks that step 1 will take me from a 100 metal to a 400 resin all in one step. If that is the case can I use
step 2 and then powder polish.
Can I use the pucks on this material and cut my times down significantly.
can I use step 1 and 2 and then switch to resin diamonds and polish.
We can only do this work on weekends and we are always pressed for time. I am intrigued and curious if in working with the cheetahs would save us some time.
I am not sure if Dana will respond to this. The quartz aggregate makes the material quite hard to cut.
I would love to hear any feedback regarding this(the pucks) being a potential way to refinish this floor or not.
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