I would suggest using a better admix, some are better than others. I use my admix from Lyons mfg made for my cement microtoppings..huskqvarna has a strong one as well. I started using the lyons product with that traverfil eastern marble sells and its hard as a rock...I heard a product called laticrette 3000 is really hard too..unless you are trying to harden the grout so the sand doesn't scratch the polish ..I would skip the densify part
On Saturday, March 1, 2014 11:57 AM, Gregory Cook <info@surfaceshawaii.com> wrote:
The point is not to density the travertine, it is to harden the grout used as a filler.
Thank You,Gregory CookSurface Solutions Inc.808.891.1963Sent from my iPhoneI think densifing travertine is a waste of time . I think there could be some merit to using it on limestone and certain marbles. I found this information on the net as to how densifiers work, and unless there is some free lime, or perhaps calcium carbonate its a waste of time."Sodium, potassium, magnesium, and lithium silicates all react with calcium hydroxide (also referred to as “portlandite” or “free lime”)—a byproduct of cement hydration—to produce calcium silicate hydrate (Hardened Cement), the same that results from adding water to cement and gives concrete much of its strength and hardness. In the hydration process, calcium hydroxide dissolved in water moves to the surface region of a slab. As silicates attack the calcium hydroxide this newly created Hardened Cement Particle is deposited primarily in the pores and canals on the surface of a slab. This results in a harder and denser concrete surface. There are varying kinds of silicates in solution that are commercially sold for dust proofing and densifying concrete. How they behave and the results achieved depend on a the type of silicate and the physical properties of the material. '
On Friday, February 28, 2014 1:25 PM, Mike Marsoun <nulifesc@bigpond.com> wrote:
I find that if I go over the floor quickly with light passes and diamonds with good ventilation then it does not dish out the grout. Also I always let it sit 24 hours after grouting...take a day off. I think I'll try to density at this point which would be 120 resins. Doing a loose tile sample today with a hand machine.
Sent from my iPhoneThe lithium silicate will not have a problem with the acrylic. I applied the densifier as soon as the grout looked dry and before grinding off the excess so that it wouldn't wear out my diamonds and create any divots in the filled holes. That way the grout would remain level with the stone. I just flooded a section at a time and kept it wet for about 15mins and squeegeed the excess to the next section. It really hardened the grout well, I was surprised. It would be best to wait until the following day to grind the excess off after densifying especially if you are doing it wet.
Thank You,Gregory CookSurface Solutions Inc.808.891.1963Sent from my iPhonedo you think the acrylic would inhibit the densifier from reacting with the grout? Greg, when did you apply the densifier after you grouted, did you grind back the excess first? I like the acrylic because of bonding as I am going over existing grout...
Sent from my iPhoneI have grouted without latex and used a lithium silicate densifier the next day and the grout was really hard. It ground easy and took a polish.
Thank You,Gregory CookSurface Solutions Inc.808.891.1963Sent from my iPhoneThat's what I do Stu, grout with latex, but the last one I did there were dull areas due to lack of density.
Sent from my iPhoneI have heard that some densifiers will work but have never used any.Not sure why you would need it.Dry treat makes a consolidator but not sure how effective it would be .We just grind and fill with grout and latex.On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 8:35 PM, Mike Marsoun <nulifesc@bigpond.com> wrote:
Has anyone tried a lithium silicate on travertine? I have to do some samples and it is all I have in stock (hyper guard). Doing a grind and fill on travertine. I think I have some sodium silicate also...
Sent from my iPhone
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