I think you will be fine Chris.
get yourself (when you have time) some diamond impregnated pads to use for honing applications.
Youll be glad you did.


On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 10:45 AM, Chris <csantospago@gmail.com> wrote:
Stuart, I believe I am limited to using diamond resin pads and honing powder as that's all I have on my truck and it needs to be done today. So I guess I will try to use as little water as possible. 
Thanks again

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On Jul 29, 2014, at 10:30 AM, stuart rosen <mail@stoneshine.com> wrote:

Chris you mentioned polished in your post-so forget polishing or using 5x.

Much easier if it is honed-I would probably just use vortex red dot (220/400) small amount of water then maybe run a number 0ne(800g)
It may make it too shiny however.
You can also use resin diamonds and honing powders but then you are using more water.
If you have some electroplated or sandpaper dics you could remove all the etching dry by hand and then go over the floor with a vortex/polypad or any diamond impregnated pad that will give you a nice uniform matte finish.


On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 9:59 AM, Chris <csantospago@gmail.com> wrote:
Stuart, yes I used iron out. 
It is a bathroom so I will polish the whole floor. 
When you say  cut and polish do you mean using 5X powder after cutting the floor with 400 grit? I want to keep it honed. Currently there is almost no reflection at all. I want to keep it that way but I also don't want any of the swirl marks from cutting it.
Thanks for your input as usual



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On Jul 28, 2014, at 10:30 PM, stuart rosen <mail@stoneshine.com> wrote:

Good Job Chris-did you use iron out?
It is possible that water could cause some issues.
You need to put that in your contract so you are protected.
Letting them know is a good idea as well.
Use as least water as possible and bring in some blowers to dry them quickly. do maybe one 400 grit resin diamonds cut and polish.
Honing powder wont give you the clarity. If the stone dries out fast take it to 800 grit.
Sealing the floor with something like dry treat might help-dry claims even after light honing some of their sealer stays in the stone.
Not sure I believe that cause usually after you cut it the sealer is gone.
You could polish dry  but I think you should be ok.
One issue to be aware of-if the floor is older and it has some wear you may have a situation when you polish the etched areas they may look better than the rest of the floor.
You may want to consider doing the whole floor as you need to have a uniform finish.



On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 3:56 PM, Chris <csantospago@gmail.com> wrote:
I have a white Carrara honed floor that I had used a poultice to remove some brownish stains cause by moisture. There are several bathrooms in this condo building some were worse than others. This particular floor was very slight staining and I managed to lighten it significantly.
During the poulticing process the floor was etched in the areas it was applied. I now need to remove the etching with my floor machine.
Two questions:
I don't believe the floor was sealed previously and I'm afraid the water from Polishing may soak in to the tile and bring back the brownish stains. Should I seal it before?
Also the etching  is not too bad but you can see the difference between the areas treated and untreated. Which grits should I start and finish with and should I use honing powder?
I appreciate your feedback
Thanks
Chris

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