I would talk up a honed finish. The scratch patterns will sneak up on you in the polish, especially on the edges. Go to a fab shop and get a remnant or ask them if they have a sink cut out.

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On Jun 18, 2018, at 7:07 AM, Stuart Rosen <mail@stoneshine.com> wrote:

Good move
They could buy new for less than what the cost to do that work might be

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On Jun 18, 2018, at 7:31 AM, Blain Haeg <blain@goldstandardfloorcare.com> wrote:

I appreciate the feedback. My original response to the client was that it would likely be cost-prohibitive. Now, I can also share that it will likely not have predictable results. We'll pass on this one.



Blain Haeg
Gold Standard Floor Care
512.257.3070 office
512.750.1242 cell
blain@goldstandardfloorcare.com
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On Mon, Jun 18, 2018 at 6:08 AM, Fred Hueston <fhueston@gmail.com> wrote:
I wouldn't touch it.  It may have crystal damage due to the flaming...which means you will get an inconsistent polish

On Mon, Jun 18, 2018 at 6:50 AM, Stuart Rosen <mail@stoneshine.com> wrote:
The crux is getting below the texture then bringing it back in either case.
You need a sample to work on.


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On Jun 17, 2018, at 10:45 PM, Blain Haeg <blain@goldstandardfloorcare.com> wrote:

The customer sent some pictures this afternoon. It looks like it's flamed granite, rather than leathered. Appears that the edges and perimeter of the sink are somewhat different. Would your approach on flamed granite be different than leathered granite?

Blain Haeg
Gold Standard Floor Care
512.257.3070 office
512.750.1242 cell
blain@goldstandardfloorcare.com
www.GoldStandardFloorCare.com

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On Sun, Jun 17, 2018 at 3:44 PM, Stuart Rosen <mail@stoneshine.com> wrote:
Yup definitely challenging.
Also is it going to be too pricey
Do you have pics
Are their a lot of edges to deal with

I would get a a good sized piece of it and work out the sequence as a mock up.
You need to get below the leather.
I think a medium cup wheel followed by a fine cup wheel then a heavier machine with coppers to start.


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On Jun 17, 2018, at 11:20 AM, Tony Deluna <tndeluna@gmail.com> wrote:

That’s going to be a challenge keeping it from getting wavy.
Whenever we do countertops we always put a floor machine on top there with a 35 pound weighted pad driver. It comes out so much more flat and goes much faster. 
It was scary at first getting used to but I’ll never go back, it’s just too productive. We typically do it with two guys, one to run the machine and one person as a spotter on the motor. 
Personally I would walk away from that one. 
But good luck

Tony DeLuna
925-625-9625

On Jun 16, 2018, at 12:15 PM, Bob Murrell <bmurrell@m3techinc.com> wrote:

Use metal bonds probably starting at about 30 or 48 grit, depending on how dimensional the leathering is.
I can also tell you that I recommend the biggest drive plate possible (maybe a 10” or 13” machine) to avoid waving the surface. Keeping the surface monolithic is key to success. Most Restoration professionals don’t have to go this low with metals and believe me, you can wave a countertop easy. Working in the fab industry you know and restoration guys don’t have radial arm machines for in the field (hmm, not a bad idea for a portable type model).
Do a test to confirm results and procedure.
Good luck


Sent from Bob Murrell's iPhone
M3 Technologies, Inc.
865-607-0957
Office 800-342-4533


On Jun 16, 2018, at 1:47 PM, Blain Haeg <blain@goldstandardfloorcare.com> wrote:

I've got a request to transition a leathered granite counter into a traditional polished surface. Recommendations for beginning steps before moving into normal granite resins?
Blain Haeg
Gold Standard Floor Care
512.257.3070 office
512.750.1242 cell
blain@goldstandardfloorcare.com
www.GoldStandardFloorCare.com

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