Keeping the surface profile monolithic (perfectly flat) is key. A perfectly flat polish provides the highest light reflection and clarity.
Using tools like dips and lose grain abrasives (powders and compounds) automatically puts we restoration pros at a slight disadvantage. When using these types of tools and products, they tend to route the softer areas of the stone at a faster rate which
produces an inconsistent surface profile (orange peel). This diffusion of the light is accentuated on some marbles more than others.
Factory marbles are normally polished using captured grain abrasives (5X bricks) which help provide for the flattest polished surface possible. This process provides the highest light reflection.
5X bricks are not practical in most field work applications because of factors like grout lines, lippage, etc. that are not present in production facilities.
So we must use the products that can best duplicate that of the production facility in the field. Tools like semi-rigid and rigid diamond abrasive discs should provide a good flat surface. On marbles like the one you showed, you may need to hone higher
in grit say to 1800g or 3500g, before polishing.
Using smaller amounts of your normal polishing powder with more water may help as well.
Also, there are no acidic polished and compounds available too (tin oxide based) which may help get that factory finish.
Sometimes your trusty 5X may not work as well as another formula, so always have them all on the truck.
Sometimes using a Crystallizer may work to achieve a more reflective surface.
There are many other options that can be used too like solid felt heads, different types pads (natural, red, aqua). Varying the amount of powder verses water, weight, and number of passes can all be varied.
You have to take everything on the truck and do a small test to confirm both the results and procedure.
You asked.....and good luck
Sent from Bob Murrell's iPhone
M3 Technologies, Inc.
865-607-0957
Office 800-342-4533
It looks like you may have a slight orange peel. Tell us indetails what you did. Diamond brand and powders etc
A plea to everyone:
We have been in the stone restoration business 12 years now. The attached photo illustrates our nemisis, across these years, so to speak. Let me explain. I received a call from a home owner with recently installed marble. The installers decided to “polish”
the marble to remove some defect. (That really doesn’t matter). The home owner placed an extra tile (factory finish) next to a tile “polished” by the installers. Look at the photo. The beam of light crossing the tile is a reflection from a vanity light. The
difference between the factory finished tile, and the “polished" tile is overwhelming, particularly if you’ve been looking at stone for a long time. As I learned from Mauricio long ago, there are two things to look for: Degree of reflectivity, and clarity.
The “polished” stone loses on both counts. Less reflectivity, less clarity. Although we haven’t worked on this stone, I looked at it and I told the home owner that I didn’t know how to restore the tile to a factory finish. We have tried varying our polishing
compounds, honing methods (resin diamonds vs. dips). I feel that if I don’t know how to replicate the factory finish, then I’m not really in the ballgame. The factory finished tile looks perfectly smooth, like glass. The “polished" tile looks as if it
has a texture. I believe this is referred to at times as “orangepeel”. This “texture” may be causing the light to defract in a way that is not uniform, as opposed to a surface absolutely smooth which facilitates a “uniform” defraction.
Desperately,
Stu Young
Santa Fe Floor Care
Begin forwarded message:
Date:
September 12, 2018 at 7:14:51 PM CDT<IMG_0786.jpg>
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